To this point, my final day, Paris and I had worked so well togehter. Most plans played out smoothly and the few glitches were met with a seamless transition to a new, equally enticing endeavor. So at 9 am when I approached the ticket booth in the Metro station and read the sign taped to the glass, it appeared as though our synchronicity continued. "Verailles: Roundtrip Ticket and Entry Fee - 19 Euros" was emplazoned, in English, on the full-color flyer. Since I had scheduled the entire day to be spent at the Palace, I eagerly pulled a 20 Euro bill from my pocket. As I stood in line to pay, the picture of one of the Trumpesque interior rooms made the trip even more appealling. The decoration was all at once beautiful yet overdone; opulent and pompous.
I gladly dropped my 20 into the tray and announced to the teller that I would like the package for Versailles. "But you know the Palace is closed on Monday," he stated. His English had a heavy French accent but I needed no clarification.
Versailles was the attraction I was most looking forward to visiting. I had no contingency plan. I had abundant energy from a couple of espressos and a whole day in front of me - but no place to go. I decided to take adavantage of my hotel's location and visit the numerous places that were within walking distance. I reached out to my nemesis - the Thanksgiving Day Float map. The closest sight it depicted was the Musee de Cluny. I had no idea what I would find, but my with my limited French I knew it was at the least a museum. What it housed, I hadn't a clue. Lost American tourists maybe. But with no other options I walked up Saint Michel a couple of blocks to find out.
Musee de Cluny turned out to be a true find. First, it was a large 15th century private home. This was impressive enough. But inside there was a vast collection of medieval pieces - tapestries, chalices, dozens of statues, wood and marble carvings, including life-size versions of Christ on the cross, swords, armor, stained glass... The statues were taken from the exterior of churches and the wood and marble carvings were parts of eloborate altar scenes. It was great to see them up close and appreciate the detail that's lost when they're 30 feet in the air.
While I was there I crossed paths with a group of about 25 school kids on a field trip. I happened to be standing in a narrow hall looking at about 25 marble carvings of religous figures. A nerdy, little French kid, seperated from the class, stopped about 5 feet from me. He looked up at the carvings and said "Magnifique!" then kept on walking. It was funny. Cluny also has as it's foundation a Roman bath house, built around the year 200 AD. You can walk through the structure, observe the architecture and see some of the baths themselves.
That afternoon I also took in the Panteon and saw the famed Sorbonne up close. I closed my tour of Paris with a stop at the Gardens of Luxemborg. Basically, the gardens of a former palace that now serve as a city park.
In that Garden, as the sun set on my trip and the city, I crystallized my thoughts on Paris. Being a kid from New Jersey, New York City feels like an old friend. We've known each other for some time and share a lot of good memories. And every once in a while, the City calls and I visit. We've both changed a lot, but we need no introduction. Paris feels like a new friend. A new friend I like a lot. She will call and I will visit.
So approprioately this is not goodbye but "Au Revoir" which translates to: "until we meet again."
Friday, November 30, 2007
Sunday, November 25, 2007
Day 4 - In Search Of A Prison
The Latin Quarter sleeps in on Sundays. About 1030 I poked my head out of the window to just a few uninspired pedstrians and intermittent traffic below in a space a few hours earlier that was awash in bar-hoppers, sight-seers and street performers.
Within a half-hour I hit the street in search of Le Conciergerie. In French, Concierge means keeper. Le Conciergerie translates to "the Keeper's place". Here the keeper kept track of the Kings things - food, building supplies, servants, soldiers and the assorted stuff needed to run a castle. But I'm interested in another item belonging to the King that's on The Keepers List - Prisoners. Le Conciergerie also served as a prison. More like a detention center for people about to be brought before the court to hear their fate. More than 2000 were sentenced to die. The process was simple and swift. The court made their decision and the prisoner was killed the next day. A quick stop at Notre Dame across the street for a final blessing then down a few blocks to the public square where they were hanged, guillontined, shot or pulled apart limb from limb.
I don't know why I'm drawn to such a macabre place but I am. The problem is I can't find it. I know it's close to my hotel and on the Right Bank of the Seine. The tourist map they gave me at the Hotel has all of the sights clearly marked. Unfortunately, they made every building look enourmous in contrast to the street. The map makes every notable attraction in Paris look like a Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade Float suspended above 5th Avenue. Look there's Underdog and a giant Turkey. My problem is I'm looking for an 18th century prison. Unfortunately, on this map it covers about 6 city blocks.
I wander for at least an hour, but it's well worth it. I eventually make it back to the Louvre and get to enjoy the courtyards and take pictures. I couldnt on my first trip because it was raining. I also stumble across a few neighborhoods tucked behind the main road where I see Parisians enjoying their Sunday. In a small park I see a grandmother who watches her 2 grandsons kick a tennis ball back and forth and a woman playing innocently with her Black Lab. And then the dog sees the rolling tennis ball and sprints across the park scaring the crap out of the 2 kids. The lab meant no harm. He scooped up the ball and just wanted to play keep away. None-the-less, I think 2 little French boys peed their pants.
Eventually I found Le Conciergerie. It's camouflaged because it's still connected to a functioning police station. I walked past it 2 or 3 times, but there were policemen everywhere around it and I never thought that would be the place.
I stayed for a couple of hours and it was eerie. To see the cells, hear stories of how hundreds of people, men and women together, were just thrown into rooms like cattle with no beds or bathrooms and just hay on the floor. I also saw the cell of Marie Antoinette which of course was private and had furniture and a bed. But what made the biggest impression was just knowing I was standing where men waited to die and seeing the door they walked through on the way to their execution.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
It's Monday night and this is all I have time for now. I'm leaving in the morning and will complete my blog upon arrival to the US. I'll post my pictures, tell more about the places I visited and opine on people I met, French food, the attractiveness of the women, funny scenarios I encountered and render my Final Impression on Paris. So if you wish check back through the end of the week and as I'll be making daily entries.
Within a half-hour I hit the street in search of Le Conciergerie. In French, Concierge means keeper. Le Conciergerie translates to "the Keeper's place". Here the keeper kept track of the Kings things - food, building supplies, servants, soldiers and the assorted stuff needed to run a castle. But I'm interested in another item belonging to the King that's on The Keepers List - Prisoners. Le Conciergerie also served as a prison. More like a detention center for people about to be brought before the court to hear their fate. More than 2000 were sentenced to die. The process was simple and swift. The court made their decision and the prisoner was killed the next day. A quick stop at Notre Dame across the street for a final blessing then down a few blocks to the public square where they were hanged, guillontined, shot or pulled apart limb from limb.
I don't know why I'm drawn to such a macabre place but I am. The problem is I can't find it. I know it's close to my hotel and on the Right Bank of the Seine. The tourist map they gave me at the Hotel has all of the sights clearly marked. Unfortunately, they made every building look enourmous in contrast to the street. The map makes every notable attraction in Paris look like a Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade Float suspended above 5th Avenue. Look there's Underdog and a giant Turkey. My problem is I'm looking for an 18th century prison. Unfortunately, on this map it covers about 6 city blocks.
I wander for at least an hour, but it's well worth it. I eventually make it back to the Louvre and get to enjoy the courtyards and take pictures. I couldnt on my first trip because it was raining. I also stumble across a few neighborhoods tucked behind the main road where I see Parisians enjoying their Sunday. In a small park I see a grandmother who watches her 2 grandsons kick a tennis ball back and forth and a woman playing innocently with her Black Lab. And then the dog sees the rolling tennis ball and sprints across the park scaring the crap out of the 2 kids. The lab meant no harm. He scooped up the ball and just wanted to play keep away. None-the-less, I think 2 little French boys peed their pants.
Eventually I found Le Conciergerie. It's camouflaged because it's still connected to a functioning police station. I walked past it 2 or 3 times, but there were policemen everywhere around it and I never thought that would be the place.
I stayed for a couple of hours and it was eerie. To see the cells, hear stories of how hundreds of people, men and women together, were just thrown into rooms like cattle with no beds or bathrooms and just hay on the floor. I also saw the cell of Marie Antoinette which of course was private and had furniture and a bed. But what made the biggest impression was just knowing I was standing where men waited to die and seeing the door they walked through on the way to their execution.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
It's Monday night and this is all I have time for now. I'm leaving in the morning and will complete my blog upon arrival to the US. I'll post my pictures, tell more about the places I visited and opine on people I met, French food, the attractiveness of the women, funny scenarios I encountered and render my Final Impression on Paris. So if you wish check back through the end of the week and as I'll be making daily entries.
Saturday, November 24, 2007
Days 2 & 3 - Parisian Celebrities
It's Saturday evening as I write this entry. I've done so many things to this point that they're impossible to accurately communicate with the one hour I have on the internet.
Yesterday I spent the entire day at the Louvre. The building and grounds alone are worth the trip. I took in the Ancient Egyptian exhibit which led right into an exhibition of Greek and Roman antiquities. Educational, enlightening and visually spectacular. It was so fantastic it will be it's own entry.
The Star of the Louvre
I ended the day by visiting the first lady of Paris: The Mona Lisa. She is unequivocally the Paris Hilton of Paris because when you see her you can't help but ask: "Why is she so famous?".
The Mona Lisa is in a wing of the Louvre devoted to large Italian Masterpieces. The crowd is so frenzied to see that smirk that the masses are roped off 2 stories below to control the flow of fans. I waited for about 10 minutes behind velvet ropes (would you expect anything else to see Ms. Hilton?), while others had been there for 20 minues prior. When the attendant gets the OK to let people in (yes through a South Beach/LA official doorman's headset), the masses sprint up the stairs with cameras in hand like papparazzi!
And as they charge there's a frenzied buzz about the crowd. Here's the funny thing: After you turn the second set of stairs you enter a hall which then leads to the room with Ms. Hilton. This hall is about 50 yards long with a 70 ft. high arched ceiling. The room, from floor to apex, is painted Blood Red. An intensely dramatic sight. The drama is heightened by the enormous and beautiful Italian paintings that dominate the space on all levels. The bloody paint color and the beauty of the paintings halt the paparazzi. They take in the sights with genuine amazement. Heads roll back, forth, up and down. Then about halfway through the room the crowd realizes: "Paris Hilton's in the next room!!!" and they go apeshit again and sprint the rest of the way to the Mona Lisa.
As you turn the corner to see it you cannot helped to be underwhelmed - but everyone crowds around nonetheless. I glance briefly but can't believe this homely Italian woman seduces 6 million visitors per year. My dissapointment is reversed when I turn my attention to a painting directly opposite Ms Hilton. It is of the Wedding at Cana, where Jesus is believed to have performed his first miracle of turning water into wine. It's the largest painting in the Louvre - probably 40 ft long by 30 ft high. There are 130 people in the painting and the size and vibrancy of the colors captivate you - unless of coure you're too entranced by Ms. Hilton. There are dozens of equally impressive works throughout this area, but they all are reduced to second billing as the queen of hype undeservedly dominates the attention of the masses.
In keeping with my "Access Hollywood" theme, if the Mona Lisa is Paris Hilton then the Eiffel Tower is Britney Spears. I got there about 2 this afternoon. I got up close and was not inspired enough to wait in line for 2 hours to climb the stairs. Instead I walked to the Arc de Triomphe. It was built in the early 1800's and was to be modeled after Roman architecture. The grand scale and ornate details clearly hit their mark. However, it's true worth was realized when I climbed to the top. Unobstructed views of Paris in all directions. These views were spectacular in the setting afternoon sun. Morever, as darkness fell on Paris the "City of Lights" & "The World's Most Beautiful City" were revealed.
After a lengthy photo session, I walked down the Champs Elysees. While this area is widely panned by the Paris purists, I really enjoyed it. It's arrow-straight for about a mile and deadends into the semi-famous Ferris Wheel. The sidewalks are expansive - probably 30 ft across on both sides - and the streets equally oversized. This grand vista allows the Champs Elysees to reveal herself to you; while can't help but take in the lights and sights of the shops calling to you in your periphery. The hum of the crowd and the variety of street traffic noises make for a delightful symphony that serve as the soundtrack to the wonderful visual stimulus.
Beyond the Ferris Wheel I continued my walk back to the hotel along the Seine. For about 2 hours I snapped photos of beautifully lit buildings and bridges along the way. In my rear view mirror was my friend from earlier in the day - TheEiffel Tower. She was all illuminated from base to crown. And this is why she is Britney Spears: up close she was not a pretty sight, but from a distance - and all dressed up in the evening light - she was beautiful.
Yesterday I spent the entire day at the Louvre. The building and grounds alone are worth the trip. I took in the Ancient Egyptian exhibit which led right into an exhibition of Greek and Roman antiquities. Educational, enlightening and visually spectacular. It was so fantastic it will be it's own entry.
The Star of the Louvre
I ended the day by visiting the first lady of Paris: The Mona Lisa. She is unequivocally the Paris Hilton of Paris because when you see her you can't help but ask: "Why is she so famous?".
The Mona Lisa is in a wing of the Louvre devoted to large Italian Masterpieces. The crowd is so frenzied to see that smirk that the masses are roped off 2 stories below to control the flow of fans. I waited for about 10 minutes behind velvet ropes (would you expect anything else to see Ms. Hilton?), while others had been there for 20 minues prior. When the attendant gets the OK to let people in (yes through a South Beach/LA official doorman's headset), the masses sprint up the stairs with cameras in hand like papparazzi!
And as they charge there's a frenzied buzz about the crowd. Here's the funny thing: After you turn the second set of stairs you enter a hall which then leads to the room with Ms. Hilton. This hall is about 50 yards long with a 70 ft. high arched ceiling. The room, from floor to apex, is painted Blood Red. An intensely dramatic sight. The drama is heightened by the enormous and beautiful Italian paintings that dominate the space on all levels. The bloody paint color and the beauty of the paintings halt the paparazzi. They take in the sights with genuine amazement. Heads roll back, forth, up and down. Then about halfway through the room the crowd realizes: "Paris Hilton's in the next room!!!" and they go apeshit again and sprint the rest of the way to the Mona Lisa.
As you turn the corner to see it you cannot helped to be underwhelmed - but everyone crowds around nonetheless. I glance briefly but can't believe this homely Italian woman seduces 6 million visitors per year. My dissapointment is reversed when I turn my attention to a painting directly opposite Ms Hilton. It is of the Wedding at Cana, where Jesus is believed to have performed his first miracle of turning water into wine. It's the largest painting in the Louvre - probably 40 ft long by 30 ft high. There are 130 people in the painting and the size and vibrancy of the colors captivate you - unless of coure you're too entranced by Ms. Hilton. There are dozens of equally impressive works throughout this area, but they all are reduced to second billing as the queen of hype undeservedly dominates the attention of the masses.
In keeping with my "Access Hollywood" theme, if the Mona Lisa is Paris Hilton then the Eiffel Tower is Britney Spears. I got there about 2 this afternoon. I got up close and was not inspired enough to wait in line for 2 hours to climb the stairs. Instead I walked to the Arc de Triomphe. It was built in the early 1800's and was to be modeled after Roman architecture. The grand scale and ornate details clearly hit their mark. However, it's true worth was realized when I climbed to the top. Unobstructed views of Paris in all directions. These views were spectacular in the setting afternoon sun. Morever, as darkness fell on Paris the "City of Lights" & "The World's Most Beautiful City" were revealed.
After a lengthy photo session, I walked down the Champs Elysees. While this area is widely panned by the Paris purists, I really enjoyed it. It's arrow-straight for about a mile and deadends into the semi-famous Ferris Wheel. The sidewalks are expansive - probably 30 ft across on both sides - and the streets equally oversized. This grand vista allows the Champs Elysees to reveal herself to you; while can't help but take in the lights and sights of the shops calling to you in your periphery. The hum of the crowd and the variety of street traffic noises make for a delightful symphony that serve as the soundtrack to the wonderful visual stimulus.
Beyond the Ferris Wheel I continued my walk back to the hotel along the Seine. For about 2 hours I snapped photos of beautifully lit buildings and bridges along the way. In my rear view mirror was my friend from earlier in the day - TheEiffel Tower. She was all illuminated from base to crown. And this is why she is Britney Spears: up close she was not a pretty sight, but from a distance - and all dressed up in the evening light - she was beautiful.
Friday, November 23, 2007
Day 1 - My First Impressions
Travel delays put me at my hotel around 3 pm when I had hoped to arrive about 11 am. This changed my plans a little. I checked into the hotel, grabbed a coffee - Starbucks wouldn't you know - and walked the neighborhood. Here are impressions on my introduction to Paris.
The Place
Foremost, Paris is a city. It pretends to be nothing else. This is not a tourist destination that says "Welcome. How may I help?" and leaves a chocolate on your pillow, but "Bon jour. There's food in the fridge. Help yourself, but I've things to do."
Paris is more like New York City than any city in the States. As with the Big Apple, it has it's own personality that you feel as you walk her streets. There's a pulse; a rhythym that gets you up to speed as soon as you enter. I feel it and enjoy the pace at once.
My hotel is in the Latin Quarter. It's tucked a half-block in from Le Boulvard Saint Michel which is lined with chain stores -that's where I got the coffee - and local shops. There is a constant stream of assorted traffic: speeding cars, chugging bicyclists and hurried pedestrians. Behind the hotel is a fantstic weave of alleys. They have no vehicle traffic but plenty of people. They're barely 10 feet across and not one is straight. But all are lined with small restaurants and little pubs. Any taste you have can be satisfied by the array of offerings: French, Italian, Greek, Indian, Chinese, Japanese, Thai....
My room is small but extremely clean, comfortable and tidy. It's location is fantastic and will serve me well as a base of operations and sleeping quarters;
The People
The myth of the rude French is overblown. Every person has been very nice. My limited French has been best put to use with the phrase: "Vous parlez Anglais?" (Do you speak English?). Most everyone does. Many very well. And those who claim not too are markedly better than I am in French.
This writing is of early Friday evening; I have been to the Louvre, Notre Dame, some local bars and had my first French dinner. And of course checked out the Women - better than expected...
The Place
Foremost, Paris is a city. It pretends to be nothing else. This is not a tourist destination that says "Welcome. How may I help?" and leaves a chocolate on your pillow, but "Bon jour. There's food in the fridge. Help yourself, but I've things to do."
Paris is more like New York City than any city in the States. As with the Big Apple, it has it's own personality that you feel as you walk her streets. There's a pulse; a rhythym that gets you up to speed as soon as you enter. I feel it and enjoy the pace at once.
My hotel is in the Latin Quarter. It's tucked a half-block in from Le Boulvard Saint Michel which is lined with chain stores -that's where I got the coffee - and local shops. There is a constant stream of assorted traffic: speeding cars, chugging bicyclists and hurried pedestrians. Behind the hotel is a fantstic weave of alleys. They have no vehicle traffic but plenty of people. They're barely 10 feet across and not one is straight. But all are lined with small restaurants and little pubs. Any taste you have can be satisfied by the array of offerings: French, Italian, Greek, Indian, Chinese, Japanese, Thai....
My room is small but extremely clean, comfortable and tidy. It's location is fantastic and will serve me well as a base of operations and sleeping quarters;
The People
The myth of the rude French is overblown. Every person has been very nice. My limited French has been best put to use with the phrase: "Vous parlez Anglais?" (Do you speak English?). Most everyone does. Many very well. And those who claim not too are markedly better than I am in French.
This writing is of early Friday evening; I have been to the Louvre, Notre Dame, some local bars and had my first French dinner. And of course checked out the Women - better than expected...
Wednesday, November 21, 2007
Bon Voyage
Here I sit in a city that millions of people want to visit and nobody speaks my language. Paris? No, I’m still in Miami, but before I depart I just wanted to discuss my expectations and define the purpose of my journey a little.
Right now I’m really conflicted about France. We’re supposed to hate them right? And I keep hearing the French are rude and hate Americans. That’s not really the setting for the ideal vacation. Well, the conflict lies in the fact that every American I’ve talked to who has actually been to Paris raved about it and said I’m going to love it. So Freedom Fries be damned I’m going to Paris - armed with curiousity and 8 hours of "Conversational French" - in search of some truth.
Everyday I hope to experience at least of few of the following:
1) Walk in the steps of History
2) See fantastic architecture
3) Have real interaction with Parisians
4) Taste genuine French Cuisine to see why the world’s chefs worship at the French Stove Top
5) Use my bad French and have someone understand it.
6) Meet Hot French Chicks, of course - I’m skeptical they exist (Bridgette Bardot notwithstanding) but I’m willing to explore in the name of research.
At the end of these 5 days, if I am able to check off 2 or 3 of these things per day, I feel my trip will have been a success. Then I’ll feel as though I know Paris as opposed to just having seen Paris and I can draw my own conclusions about France and the rude-ass French.
Right now I’m really conflicted about France. We’re supposed to hate them right? And I keep hearing the French are rude and hate Americans. That’s not really the setting for the ideal vacation. Well, the conflict lies in the fact that every American I’ve talked to who has actually been to Paris raved about it and said I’m going to love it. So Freedom Fries be damned I’m going to Paris - armed with curiousity and 8 hours of "Conversational French" - in search of some truth.
Everyday I hope to experience at least of few of the following:
1) Walk in the steps of History
2) See fantastic architecture
3) Have real interaction with Parisians
4) Taste genuine French Cuisine to see why the world’s chefs worship at the French Stove Top
5) Use my bad French and have someone understand it.
6) Meet Hot French Chicks, of course - I’m skeptical they exist (Bridgette Bardot notwithstanding) but I’m willing to explore in the name of research.
At the end of these 5 days, if I am able to check off 2 or 3 of these things per day, I feel my trip will have been a success. Then I’ll feel as though I know Paris as opposed to just having seen Paris and I can draw my own conclusions about France and the rude-ass French.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
